In times of uncertainty in the retail arena where women’s ready-to-wear still drives sales, therefore, the focus of most fashion clothing oriented businesses, the menswear collections shown in the last three weeks of June in Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan and Paris fashion week were strong on trying to allure male customers through rainbow colors,bold prints and graphics. It was clear to most attendees that menswear brands are taking more risk with prints and colors. It is definitely the main trend of the season and it’s been shown in many collections in Paris, London and Milan. London even staged, for the first time, its own series of men’s shows. It was a strong variation of colors, prints and patterns. Some of the collection going to the point of putting colors on scenario’s theme as well as in the collection to convey the message; “We are tired of beige and black and men are ready to wear more colors”! We saw shades of red, blue, green, yellow, magenta, orange and purple in collections such as Moshino, Roberto Cavalli, Raf Simons, Salvatore Ferragamo, Paul Smith, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier, Kenzo, Vivienne Westwood, Dries Van Noten, Etro, Jil Sander and Jonathan Saunders. The prints and graphics came in yellows, oranges, reds and some beige, white and black. The prints and graphics as well as colors were seen in Givenchy, Paul Smith, Versace, Paul and Joe, Carven, Jonathan Saunders and Marc Jacobs. Although this is the bet for the coming spring 2013 ready to wear, including more traditional brands such as Zegna and Brioni, it is possible to see even further hints of the future of menswear fashion in Givenchy and Mugler. This is the only place left where mainstream men haven’t adventured yet in full force. Givenchy and Mugler proposed more feminine versions of the skirt for a sexier, feminine man. The only difference is that in the Givenchy’s show, Riccardo Tisci still is investing on those double breast boxy blazers ( so Mad Men and so not modern!) while in Mugler’s show the blazer’s cut was sharper and more fitted. Some might argue that Rick Owens have been showing skirts and dresses for men for several season but what Owens proposes is skirt in black or gray and the styling of his shows are appealing for the rebel, shapeless men. Owens doesn’t show skin in his shows. He covers the body, so the pieces are layered. You see a skirt or a dress on the top of another pair of pants or shorts. It reminds me the Bedouins excursion through the desert. So, the observer has to imagine what all those layers are covering. It is a different kind of sexy. On the other hand, The Mugler man is sexy with beautiful legs showing and not shy to tell the world I am sexy. Ok, back on the main trend of the season: colors and prints. These two main trends are an advance in menswear collection which we all should give props for it since what we see, mainly in the streets, are men wearing mostly black, beige or gray outfits. However, it’s not new to see the American prep boy wearing color pants and sweaters. I think designer are getting to the tipping point of how many different ways one can cut a man’s shirt or a blazer; synchronizing with society’s a bit obscure but real trend: the femininity of men; The idea of the 90’s metrosexual men elevated to a higher level. According to Lillian Alzheimer, “The most important shift in masculinity is that there is less avoidance of femininity and the “emergence of a segment of men who have embraced customs and attitudes once deemed the province of women.”[01] The freedom and acceptance of wearing whatever you want without being labeled in this or that box. So, the next stage is the bi-modern-sexual men. Women has a huge range of clothing possibilities so should men. The idea of being rebel or modern because you wear a color blazer with beaded lapel is already in the past. The bi-modern-sexual men should have the option of a dress or a skirt or a silk top if he chooses to. If now Modern is when you wear colors or bold prints and slim pants, the future will be not only the idea but also acceptance of dresses, tops and skirts for main stream men. I guess bi-sexuality assumes a total new meaning in the modern menswear wardrobe. Below are spring 2013 trend pics.All pic courtesy http://www.style.com
[01] · ^ Alzheimer, Lillian (22 June 2003). “Metrosexuals: The Future of Men?”.
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Bacca Silva 